Camino 2013 - Day 31 - 24 December 2013

Another day of firsts. Yesterday parts of Europe including Spain were on red alert for extreme weather conditions. During the night cyclonic winds and rain hit us, so we put off our departure from Monte Gozo until 09:00 and then stepped out into bucketing rain and wind gusts that blew us of the footpath. Strangely there were few people on the road and the couple of motorists who passed us must have thought us crazy and hooted their horns. The 5km walk took longer then expected and we arrived at the pilgrims office looking like drowned rats. An hour later we attended the pilgrims mass in the cathedral where it was read out that Jennifer from Germany, Kristina and Lilli from Slovenia, and myself from Australia were the only pilgrims whom arrived on Christmas Eve. I'm booked in for the special hotel Parador dinner tonight, then at 22:30 the ladies and I are having drinks and exchanging gifts and at midnight the Christmas mass in the cathedral.

To all my family and good friends who have followed my daily wanderings and tribulations, a Very Happy and Blessed Christmas, you are in my thoughts at this special time. Signing off from Santiago cathedral  in northern wintery Spain, pilgrim Wal :-)

Camino 2013 - Day 30 - 23 December 2013

After a very nice breakfast in Salceda where once again it was only the 4 of us in a room we set of in the rain for Monte Gozo just 4km outside Santiago. First it was along a main road but then back on the pilgrims trail through oak forest on winding trails. The uphill and downhill just never stopped and I am starting to feel that my energy reserves have been used up. The weather was not kind today and has been overcast with occasional showers and is now blowing an absolute gale! With Christmas only two days away there is not a bar or restaurant open. When we arrived at the Monte Gozo albergue we were the only 4 booked into accommodation for 400. Because everything is closed the hospitalero drove us into town to the supermarket to buy some food for dinner and breakfast. It was bedlam in Santiago with Christmas shopping and I was happy to back in the albergue. The final little walk tomorrow.

Camino 2013 - Day 29 - 22 December 2013

Imagine last night 4 strangers sharing a room in a strange house with the door locked because the hospitalera has gone home, in a strange town with three houses, on a street that we didn't know in a foreign country. That was us in an ideal setting for a murder mystery movie. And then this morning imagine four pilgrims walking in the dark through an oak forest in the rain while all the Spanish locals were sitting in bed at home reading the Sunday newspaper and drinking a cup of coffee! Well that was us! Crazy pilgrims.

Today we walked 36km from Casanova to Salceda. The albergue we are in was used by Martin Sheen when making the Camino movie " the Way" We wanted to make headway before the rain came and decided not to stay in Arzua but do the extra 10km to Salceda. Most of the day was under cloudy skies and the first few hours in continuous rain. Coffee stops were far apart and lunch was in Castaneda just outside Arzua after a 4 hour walk. The country continuous to be lovely rolling hills and forest but that also meant we spend all day going up and down hills which is tiring with a backpack and my left shin is playing up badly again. Tomorrow night in in Monto Gozo which puts us 10km outside Santiago.

Camino 2013 - Day 28 - 21 December 2013

Today a 33km walk from Portomarin to Casanova. We decided not to stay in Palas de Rei and to try and get ahead before the rain comes again and with only 59km from Santiago we are trying to do extra distance the next two days so that we arrive early morning in Santiago on Christmas Eve. The weather has been kind and although the sky was dark grey all day there was not a drop of rain until arrival at our destination. The countryside is beautiful and even though there were 18km of uphill walking it was mainly on country roads or shady lanes under oak trees shedding their leaves. We have become used to long distances without open bars and once again today it was 18km until the first hot drink. In Palas de Rei they opened the church for us for a 10 minute quiet time, then we went to the supermarket to buy evening meal and breakfast as Casanova only has an albergue and 3 houses with no other facilities. The albergue was also specially opened for us and only the 3 ladies and I are staying here tonight.

Camino 2013 - Day 27 - 20 December 2013

When I left Australia I purchased quality items for snow conditions and am carrying an extra couple of kilos in weight. With the cancellation of my original flights I missed out walking the Pyrenees in snow, now today it is snowing in Burgos and O'Cebreiro and we are 2 days out and walking in brilliant sunshine. You just can't plan on weather and airplanes.

Left Sarria in light fog this morning but mild conditions. Once again in winter you can't assume anything and we walked 18km to Mercadoiro before finding the first open bar for hot coffee. Lunch consisted of shared apple, oranges and dried fruit plus the water we carried. The walk itself was a joy although there was a tense moment when we had to use the railway bridge on a blind corner because our wooden bridge outside Sarria was rotten, underwater and dangerous.

The country side is brilliant green rolling farmland and patches of oak forest, the sky emerald blue and the paths reasonably good and covered in the normal mud, cow manure and leaves. In places the road was dangerous where night moisture had frozen to glass like ice and every step had to be watched. The leg muscles are now getting tired and will be happy to finish the last 85km to Santiago.

The albergue in Portomarin is very modern and large and promises a good night sleep. Tonight at 19:00 we are going to Mass and then soup for dinner and bed. Kristina who is my daughters age is already planning for me to walk the 1000km Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago with her. I've also got invites to Slovenia and Hamburg.

Camino 2013 - Day 26 - 19 December 2013

Today it was only 20km from Triacastela to Sarria. Today's lessons are that it rains almost all the time in Galicia and that most bars close at Christmas time. After leaving Triacastela we walked to the outskirts of Sarria before we had a hot drink and by 16:00 we still haven't eaten anything since breakfast. The weather today is similar to yesterday with continuous rain. We are all starting to smell like farmers, that nice aroma of manure and rain water through which we walk all day. The country side here is truly beautiful in its autumn browns and brilliant green fields and I have some lovely photos. The path was supposed to descend almost 500 meters down to Sarria but we seemed to slog uphill hour after hour and then all down hill again on broken slabs of slate covered in thick leaves, mud and water. By the time we arrived at Sarria we'd all had enough and within 2 hours all the other pilgrims had joined us and given away the idea of going on to Barbadello. And the rain continuous incessantly.

Camino 2013 - Day 25 - 18 December 2013

A very different day today and although we only walked 22km it was in extreme weather conditions and in the last 7km had a 700 meter descend. The morning started very very cold with a thick fog or perhaps low cloud on the mountain tops around O'Cebreiro. We thought the leaden skies might change to sun shine but no such luck, by mid morning the fog was replaced by bitter wind and the weather could not decide between rain or snow. After lunch in the little village of Biduedo the weather had deteriorated to blizzard conditions with gale force winds. With the wind hitting us side on it was impossible to walk in a straight line and ponchos became a sail dragging us of the path, when we got the wind front on it drove the rain like needles into our faces. I was silly enough to walk for a distance with no gloves and when my hands were blue with the cold I couldn't get them on properly because the lining stuck to my wet fingers. Thankfully the path was softer because of the thick layer of mud, manure, water and leaves. Arrived at Triacastela by 15:30 and booked into empty albergue. With 115km to go we are on time for Christmas in Santiago.

Camino 2013 - Day 24 - 17 December 2013

This is the day I dreaded. This morning up to a freezing bedroom and no hot water. The girls and I left at. 08:00 because Kristina had another medical appointment for her bites while Lilli and I had breakfast in a local bar. We then walked 10km to Trabadelo for our first coffee. The day started with light rain that continued all day. We donned our ponchos to keep out the rain but of course the sweat inside creates just as much dampness. The first 20km is alongside the old highway but there is almost no traffic, then we started the 16km continues uphill walk to O'Cebreiro which almost killed me. This is the stage of the Camino which is always the toughest for me! After La Faba we walked 5km on dirt track which started on a steep climb on broken rock covered in fallen leaves, this changed to mud and rocks and continued to climb. Just when I thought that it couldn't get worse it did, there was now running water with the rocks and mud and a liberal supply of horse and cow manure, we then arrived at a small village and I thought we had arrived at O'Cebreiro, but it was not and the sign said 2km more. The track continued to climb steeply and my muscles in legs, hips and back protested mightely as the rain increased and fog closed in, and mud, manure and rocks became worse. Eventually the three ladies, Jennifer from Germany had joined us, and a Brazilian man and I dragged ourselves into O'Cebreiro after 36km. We can be thankful that forecast snow didn't come. Thank goodness that the albergue in O'Cebreiro is warm and comfortable.

Camino 2013 - Day 23 - 16 December 2013

Today we walked 32km and on top of yesterday's walk I feel burned out. Tomorrow a hard uphill 30km to O'Cebreiro for which there are conflicting bad weather forecasts. This morning the ladies had breakfast in my bedroom before we headed out to a cracking -8C. We walked the 9km to Ponferrada quickly for a hot coffee in restaurant opposite the large Knights Templar castle, this was followed by 7km of suburban roads and busy highways until our lunch stop at Fuentes Nuevas, where we also met up with Jennifer who we hadn't seen for two weeks . We continued walking along country lanes until Cacabelos where we had a pilgrims wine tasting and beer in the most delightful old world hotel. The final 8km were mostly up and down hills through vineyards until we reached Villafranca and albergue Ave Fenix, which sadly was not the best choice because the hospitalero is a rude sod to anyone who didn't have dinner there. Kristina and I went to the local doctor for her many bug bites which she received during her second day on the Camino.

Camino 2013 - Day 22 - 15 December 2013

A day of mixed blessings. Breakfast was in the kitchen with the hospitalera and as we left she gave us all a hug, kiss on each cheek, wishes for a safe arrival in Santiago and a happy Christmas. The weather was perfect with not a cloud nor snow flake to be seen. As soon as we left Rabanal it was a 300 meter uphill trudge through Foncebadon to the Cruz de Ferro the highest point on the Camino at 1505m. At the cross I left a small stone from home with prayers and had a quiet time before descending to Manjarin where a lone hippie runs a small coffee stop and claims to be the last Knights Templar. After a few kilometers of uphill climb again we started our descend of 900m over 10km on the most awful, steep, stone covered paths that had suffered from some major wash out after heavy rains. Every step had to be watched and on at least 4 occasions I would have twisted an ankle were it not for the walking sticks. Finally we, now 6, arrived at Molinaseca albergue to find it closed. For the night we have accommodation in a hotel at €10 each, and I have a room on my own. I have now covered over 500km. Have you ever wondered what pilgrims eat? Our almost staple diet has become chocolate, nuts, fresh fruit and water or coffee when there is nothing else available. At the end of the day we do have a beer to replace lost fluid :-).

Camino 2013 - Day 21 - 14 December 2013

There are now only 8 pilgrims of whom 5 are new starters. Breakfast was jamon, cheese and tomato and on the road at 08:00 but in a local bar for hot coffee 5 minutes later. This morning there was a perfectly clear sky, not a breath of wind and the cold a -6C was sharp as a knifes edge, going through everything. This is the first day I thought of wearing my buff scarf over my face. Let me tell you about cold: there is cold, very cold, biter cold, penetrating cold so that your fingers are blue inside the gloves, rain cold, frosty cold, windy cold, hail cold, snow cold, extreme cold, cold showers, cold bathrooms, cold albergue, cold cathedrals and museums; so if you don't like the cold don't walk the Camino in winter because I have had them all. Currently the 2 ladies are the only women on the Camino and we 3 are all that remains of the original group. The walk from Astorga through Murias de Rechivaldo and then Santa Catalina de Somoza was a joy in beautiful peaceful bush and heath. Strangely the weather is like spring and by mid morning the layers of clothing came off. Unlike May 2010 when the mountains were covered in snow there is not a flake to be seen. After an orange and water stop in Santa Catalina we walked on to Rabanal to the albergue Nuestra Seniora del Pilar which has a farm house feel about it and the lady who runs the place is very motherly. Tonight we have a home cooked meal for €2. She also washed and dried all our clothing for us for €4. Mass at one of the ancient churches before dinner. Only two Italians and one German pilgrim besides us. I'm writing this message from the kitchen in front of a log fire. Tomorrow the highest point, Cruz de Ferro at 1505 meters and a 30km walk.

Camino 2013 - Day 20 - 13 December 2013

What a day this turned out to be. With no one else in the albergue we left in the dark at 7:30 under a cloudy sky and due to light rain, in mild temperatures. The first 10km we walked pretty much alone through flat farmland and plodded into Villavante after 2 hours for our first coffee. The next stop for an early lunch was historical Hospital del Orbigo. By now the day was warming up and outer layers of clothing were removed. The path at this stage was quite tough going because all the dirt roads were covered in egg to fist size stones and every stepped had to be watched for fear of damaging ankles or feet. In the hills outside Astorga there is a hippy who runs a little self help cafe and you pay by donation. When I told him I'd been there 3 years ago he gave me a hug and bowl of very tasty lentil soup. The final suburban slog into Astorga , Roman Asturias, is all uphill. We are staying in the communal albergue with 4 other pilgrims. This afternoon we visited the Gaudie bishops palace, the cathedral and museum and the chocolate museum because Astorga is the chocolate city of Spain, and yes we also bought some. Covered 32 km today and saw no more then 20 Spaniards in all; where are all the people in this place, they can't all be having siestas. My bite on the left leg seems to be getting worse and could be fleas or bed bugs, the Camino is polluted with them at the moment, we've all been bitten at one point or another. Tomorrow the mountains!